Camino Primitivo, Day 2

Camino Primativo, Day 2

Walked from: San Juan de Villapañada

Walked to: Bodenaya

Distance: 24.6km

When: 13 October 2019

(Image: dawn with a hint of rainbow!)

Another evening, another out of the way hamlet to call home for the night. And what a lovely, welcoming home the Alburgue de Peregrinos in Bodenaya is – its friendly hosts and cozy atmosphere make it an especially nice place to shelter from the rain that is currently pouring from the sky.

(Image: traditional grain store as the day dawns)

Today’s walk undulated its way through the hills of the Cordilla Cantabrica – there were lots of forest paths (alternating between heading steeply up AND down), a handful of tiny villages, and cafes to stop in at at both Cornellana (very nice tortilla sandwich… I’m not going to be losing any weight on this trip) and Salas. And although there was a bit of light rain from time to time, it was mainly dry. The people who arrived at the hostel after me have a different tale to tell. I had 10 minutes of heavy rain at the end. Some of them were walking in it for hours (as I expect to tomorrow).

(Image: double rainbow on the approach to Cornellana)

The countryside I passed through today was lovely, even though the dull day didn’t make for good photos. But the morning… what a magical start to the day. It was 7.30am and still dark when I left – which would explain why I wandered into a farmyard at one point. The dogs quickly let me know I shouldn’t be there, and I reversed direction, heading uphill as the dawn began to break. The colours were spectacular – and within the hour I was in rainbow heaven – for about 30 minutes, variants of them seemed to fill the huge skies of Asturias.

(Image: approaching Bodenaya)

I’ve had the nicest of evenings at the hostel, talking with the incredibly welcoming hosts and my new Camino friends as we ate our communal meal. We’re representing Spain, Germany, Korea, Japan, Italy and England tonight, but our similarities far outweigh any differences. The people you meet on Camino are the greatest pleasure of all – and it’s the element, along with the weather, that you can’t plan. The Camino (as the saying goes) provides.

About silkakt

I love to explore countries on foot or by bicycle. An English woman, I moved to the south of Spain in September 2020 and I have dreams of encouraging more people to discover this amazing country by walking its various Camino routes. To date, I've walked the French Camino from St Jean in France, the Portuguese Camino from Lisbon (interior route, not coastal) and the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo. I have also walked a fair few long distance trails in the UK, including all of the National Trails in England and Wales, and a couple of long walks in beautiful Scotland.
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4 Responses to Camino Primitivo, Day 2

  1. Siwan Hayward says:

    Great stuff Silka! Always so beautifully written with such good humour and appreciation of all life has to offer.
    Reminds me of my disastrous family holiday to Asturias last year though…where it rained, and rained, and rained, and rained, and rained. Then thick, impenetrable fog.
    Enjoy! X

  2. Eleanor Alty says:

    Wow! That photo taken at dawn is amazing. Enjoying reading these. Keep them coming. X

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