Everest Base Camp Trek – Day 9

Everest Base Camp Trek – Day 9
Date: 20 November 2017
Walked to: Pheriche
Distance: 9 miles
Altitude: Sleeping at 4,243m


I was woken this morning by a helicopter, flying in to rescue a walker with altitude sickness from the tea house where we stayed last night. Shortly afterwards, another one flew in for the same reason. For those of us who are only mildly affected by altitude (manifesting itself in me in leaden legs and breathlessness at the slightest uphill) however, having made it to Base Camp in eight days, it’s a matter of heading back down in four.

There was an option this morning to wake up at 4am and walk up Kala Pattar, the ‘black rock’ peak that towers over Gorak Shep. Three of our band of nine heroically did the three hour walk before breakfast – I was not one of them, but I am looking forward to seeing the photos… all I want to do at this point in the walk is get back to lower altitudes, and, one almost unimaginable day, to wake up in a room where I can’t see my breath, where condensation hasn’t gathered in wet beads at the top of my sleeping bag and where there isn’t ice coating the window panes.

There were a few ‘up’ bits today, and they were hard, but it was largely downhill – we’ve ‘lost’ a glorious 940m at tonight’s tea house (you can just see the village of Pheriche at the far end of today’s photo, which is of the valley the village is in) compared to where we woke up this morning. That doesn’t mean it’s not cold though – there is no way I’m prepared to shower tonight, and even though I’m sitting in the dining room (the one place, apart from the kitchen, where there is ever any heat in a tea house) and it’s almost tea time (generally ‘peak’ warmth time), I’m wearing three layers of long-sleeved tops (including a thermal), my down jacket and my bobble hat. Oh, the glamour.

About silkakt

I love to explore countries on foot or by bicycle. An English woman, I moved to the south of Spain in September 2020 and I have dreams of encouraging more people to discover this amazing country by walking its various Camino routes. To date, I've walked the French Camino from St Jean in France, the Portuguese Camino from Lisbon (interior route, not coastal) and the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo. I have also walked a fair few long distance trails in the UK, including all of the National Trails in England and Wales, and a couple of long walks in beautiful Scotland.
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4 Responses to Everest Base Camp Trek – Day 9

  1. Mark Davies says:

    I’ve caught up with all you’re lovely adventures and pics .
    What’s next young lady .And take care x

    • silkakt says:

      Thanks Mark! I’m not quite sure what’s next… I’m in Nepal for the next few weeks but would like to fit in another adventure in early December before heading home for Christmas. I’m planning two months in Southern Africa from late Jan, with more walking adventures on the cards 🙂

  2. Patricia stillwell says:

    Okay Silk ‘s where are you heading now?. I am not doing your washing when you come back. I should imagine your sleeping bag will walk on it’s own! Very proud of you. Well done.xxxxxxxx

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