Date – 20 April 2017
Walked from – Whitesands

Walked to – Pwll Deri

Miles walked – 23.8

(View from YHA at Pwll Deri)

I think I’m sitting looking out at the best hostel view in the UK – the YHA at Pwll Deri has spectacular vistas of the jagged, rocky coastline. If I weren’t trying to decide between whether the aches in my feet or the hunger in my stomach were the more pressing of my three physical maladies right now (the third being almost overwhelming tiredness), I don’t think I’d be able to tear my eyes away from it.

(Heading towards Carn Penberry)

I really worked for that view today. My iPhone app informs me I climbed the equivalent of 208 floors today, and it certainly felt that way. I left the YHA near Whitesands Beach in the cool damp of a sea mist enveloped early morning, heading through open fields on unclear paths towards the first big climb of the day, over the shoulder of Carn Penberry. On through Abereiddy, where I saw my first people after eight miles of entirely solitary walking, to Porthgain, where ‘The Shed’ cafe provided a welcome scone/jam/cream brunch stop. An hour later and I stopped again at the Mill Tearooms in Trefin, before pushing on through a couple of sunny hours through more lovely coastal scenery. 

(Scone break at ‘The Shed’ in Porthgain)
The final few miles to the hostel involved some stiff climbs, and also the first phone reception of the entire day. Sensing, rightly, that I might not see it again for a while, I ascended the rocky outcrops and ridge towards Pwll Deri while calling my mum, who was just back from her own holiday. The hostel looming into view, was a welcome sight. As was the eventual arrival of my friend from University (how does time pass so quickly that graduation was 20 years ago?) – especially as he was carrying out dinner with him. Spaghetti with lentils and sauce has never been more gratefully eaten, or a shared bottle of red more enthusiastically consumed!