Coast to Coast, Day 3

When – 6 May 2013
Where – Borrowdale to Grasmere
Distance – 9 miles
Walking with – Annette &Eleanor
Home for the night – Butharlyp Howe YHA
Weather – Dry all day. Bit misty at one point. Ended in glorious sunshine (at the pub)

Oh today was a good day. Great walking, lovely people, incredible views. And the sun came out at the end. But first let me have a bit of a moan. About the snoring. Because it turned out that one of the three of us in the dorm last night was a snorer. The kind who’s really loud. Who manages to maintain the volume all night. Turned out our other roommate gave up at 2.30am and went and slept on the sofa in the lounge. I was just very, very tired today. It does beg the question: why oh why would you stay in a dorm room when you know you snore like that?

Anyway, that aside, the walk today was fabulous. We started off with a potter through the respective hamlets of Borrowdale – Longthwaite, where I stayed last night, Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite, walking along Stonethwaite Beck on an easy path. Then the gradual climb up to Greenup Edge Pass started, past the 525m Eagle Crag, a number of waterfalls, a stunning drumlin basin (bumpy green bits – we had some yesterday too but it was raining far too hard to take a picture) and on up to Lining Crag. The views from there were good, though not good enough to see Scarfell or the coast, as you apparently can on totally clear days.

The only navigational challenge of the day was Greenup Edge, which was sitting in cloud. Cairns saved us again and views returned as we headed down the other side. We picked the ridgewalk rather than the valley route to head down to Grasmere and were rewarded – the views from Calf Crag (538m), Moment Crag and Helm Crag were fantastic, and the ridge up there is so wide that it’s not at all vertiginous. And then, to top it all off, the sun came out. And I had two pints in the sunshine while we waited the hour for Eleanor’s bus to arrive so she could start heading back to London. Then another two because I was enjoying sitting in the sun so much. And just when I thought my day couldn’t get any better, I only had to pay an extra £12 to upgrade my dorm bed to my own room. A good night of sleep; money very well spent!



About silkakt

I love to explore countries on foot or by bicycle. An English woman, I moved to the south of Spain in September 2020 and I have dreams of encouraging more people to discover this amazing country by walking its various Camino routes. To date, I've walked the French Camino from St Jean in France, the Portuguese Camino from Lisbon (interior route, not coastal) and the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo. I have also walked a fair few long distance trails in the UK, including all of the National Trails in England and Wales, and a couple of long walks in beautiful Scotland.
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