When – 16 February 2012
Where – Portreath to Perranporth
Distance – 11 miles
Home for the night – Seiners Arms, Perranporth
We escaped from smelly town this morning via the bakers – which did an impressive collection of 70s inspired cakes and the biggest scotch eggs in the world. I had one of the aforementioned scotch eggs, and it was delicious – and all for £1.60 to boot.
The way out of Portreath was the saddest and most neglected part of the Cornwall Coastal Path I’ve walked so far – and that’s all the way back from Falmouth. Rubbish strewn everywhere; horrid, and not the way to look after something that must bring in hundreds, at least, of visitors to your area every year.
The three mile stretch to Porthtowan is accompanied by a high military fence, which appears to be guarding an awful lot of cauliflowers. MOD, what are you up to there? I guess an army marches on it’s stomach… Still, the coast line was quite pretty…
The rest of the way was nearly all across heathland, and made for relatively easy going walking, a few steep downs and ups aside. I’ve walked past plenty of remnants of old tin mines since I walked my first sections of the Cornwall Coastal Path four or five years ago but apparently the old engine houses we passed on today’s walk – near Tubby’s Head, were the last lot we’ll see on this footpath.
Best bits from today included: the seasonal cafe at Chapel Forth beach which was, miraculously, open (and where the World Belly Boarding Championships are held every year – http://www.bellyboarding.co.uk/nextwbbc.htm); beautiful St Agnes Head; Trevaunance Cove and its pretty community garden that was recovered from wasteland almost a decade ago; and the lovely colours that make up Cligga Head, which is just before Shag Head and Perranporth – a town of many restaurants, most of which were shut. Sausage and mash at the pub we were staying in it was then.